It feels like an international sports team has arrived in town, as Adelaide is painted black in Metallica t-shirts.
It's a metal head's grand final as Metallica has taken over the city and Adelaide Oval (5 November). If they're not wearing a shirt, people are walking around holding Metallica 'M72' branded bags from the pop up at Queen's Theatre.
It's hard to remember when there's been so much fanfare for a band, but as the biggest metal band in the world – who haven't been to Australia since Soundwave 2013 – it's deserved.
There's a line over the River Torrens footbridge that extends out the door from Adelaide Oval. Thinking this must be the line for specific seating or a gate I ask someone waiting, "what's this line for?" She looks at me, like I've been living under a rock and says ". . . Metallica". Fair enough; as a journalist I should be more specific with my questions.
Luckily, we arrive at our seats by the time hardcore, thrash veterans Suicidal Tendencies make the stage their own. Mike Muir does his distinct shuffle as the band make use of every inch of Metallica's trademark Snakepit walkway, performing 'You Can't Bring Me Down'.
The stage set up is traditional, but a catwalk coils around the diehard audience members who have paid extra to be in the Snakepit, getting a 360-degree view of all the band members.
At this point in their career, Suicidal Tendencies almost classify as a supergroup. Their current line-up has the machine and former Slipknot drummer Jay Weinberg, and the prodigy Tye Trujillo on bass, son of Metallica bassist and former Suicidal Tendencies member, Robert Trujillo.
As you'd expect, the rhythm section is as tight as can be and Trujillo proves he's a generational talent as he solos his way through 'Send Me Your Money'. If that's not enough, you've got Dillinger Escape Plan guitarist, Ben Weinman, thrashing around the stage accompanying legendary lead guitarist Dean Pleasants.
Muir almost immediately gets lost in the sea of people as he dives into the crowd for 'Institutionalized'; even the stadium's cameras can't find him. Only the occasional mic grab from the audience lets you know he's still somewhere in there.
The audience continues to pile in, but those who have been here from the start have stretched necks from head banging by the time Weinman stands on the stacks of guitar amps to herald in 'Cyco Vision'. Muir is a man of the people and jumps back in the mosh for 'Pledge Your Allegiance' as fans scream "ST" to close out the set. It's an opening set that does its job perfectly of getting everyone pumped.
Evanescence appear through the haze like a mirage taking shape and going straight into 'Afterlife' their new single from this year. They're one of the 2000s alternative bands that seem to be having a resurgence and riding a second wave of popularity.
It must be in part due to these live shows, singer Amy Lee's voice is remarkable, sounding just as it did from 2003's defining album 'Fallen'. Her operatic vocals shine through 'Going Under' and 'Take Cover'.
She heads to the top of the catwalk and performs 'Lithium' on piano, which gives everyone a moment to fully absorb these solo moments from her before the rest of the band bring back the heavy instrumentals that complement each other impeccably.
Evanescence are a refreshing support for Metallica, a pallet cleanser between two servings of thrash metal. If you don't eat your nu-metal stadium anthems you're not getting any Metallica for dessert. That's okay, everyone's bewitched by 'My Immortal' as Lee treats Adelaide to another symphonic performance on the piano.
As expected, 'Bring Me To Life' closes the set as the audience roars after hearing the opening piano notes. The audience takes on the role of studio guest vocalist Paul McCoy as they scream "wake me up" to fill in the missing rap vocals in the live performance version.
It's a generation-defining song, the 2003 national anthem, a kind of magic that is near impossible to replicate and feels special to witness live.
A photo collage of Australian tour memories from Metallica's previous tours over the years fill the screens as 'It's A Long Way To The Top' by AC/DC fills the stadium. Metallica's opening theme song, 'The Ecstasy Of Gold' by Ennio Morricone rings out as a clarion call. It's genuinely adrenaline building as the Metallica fans in the room know it's about to begin.
The guitar chugs of 'Creeping Death' crunch as Metallica arrive onstage in Adelaide for the first time in 12 years. It's a 1984 'Ride The Lightning' one-two as bassist Rob Trujillo plays the riff of 'For Whom The Bell Tolls' before chasing lead guitarist Kirk Hammett around the stage in his signature crab walk.
It's always a worry seeing a band that has a 40-plus year career live. Have they still got it? Thankfully Metallica lives up to this legacy and they prove why they're still one of the biggest bands of all time.
James Hetfield seamlessly sings through 'Ride The Lightning' classics, then roars through 1996's 'King Nothing' before moving to the clean melodies of 'Fade To Black'. Songs like 'Fade To Black' remind everyone why Metallica came to be so successful, combining the diversity of the acoustic ballads with their neck-breaking riffs that make you bite your bottom lip.
Fire and brimstone engulf the band as James screams "gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire". One of the clear highlights of the night as people scream along hypnotised by the flames.
Hammett and Trujillo take centre stage as Lars Ulrich and Hetfield move off to the side. Trujillo explains they like to learn and play songs from the country they're in while on tour. In a totally surreal moment the intro riff from The Angels' 'Am I Ever Going To See Your Face Again' rings out and the audience screams "no way, get f...ed, f... off," at. . . Metallica? An unexpected bucket list item.
It's a bottom-heavy set list as the most head-banging worthy Metallica song 'Sad But True' booms through the stadium before switching off the distortion for 'Nothing Else Matters'. Adelaide Oval turns into a field of giant inflatable Metallica beach balls as 'Seek & Destroy' plays; unfortunately it's the only song on the set list from 'Kill 'Em All'.
It's a back to back. . . to back triple threat as they perform 'Master Of Puppets', 'One' and 'Enter Sandman' to close the night. The most iconic guitar riff in metal, 'Master Of Puppets' absorbs the crowd as they scream "MASTER! MASTER!" back at their heroes.
Gun shot fire, explosions and planes dropping bombs fill the screens and pyrotechnics go off onstage for 'One'. The song is a masterpiece highlighting Metallica's range and providing a monolithic breakdown followed by Hammett's solos.
'Enter Sandman' and a fireworks display closes the show. It's a bittersweet farewell to a band who are in the later stage in their career; even though they don't show any signs of it tonight. If it is another 12-year gap between Metallica returning to Australia the band members will be in their 70s.
Let's hope it's not another decade before we see them live again. Even if it is, that's okay – Metallica has proven tonight that unlike us mere mortals, Metallica are ageless and their music is immortal.
