It's that time of the year, when the rest of the world takes things slow, that something begins to stir in the country.
As utes and caravans kick up dust along the oft-forgotten highways, they pull in one direction, toward the call of Australia's capital of country, Tamworth.The exact origins of the second largest country music festival in the world are debated, but it has whipped along for well over 50 years, mustering around 50,000 annual visitors to its frontier.
Running across 10 days (17-26 January), it would seem pertinent to plan out a schedule, but a quick glance at a line-up of over 800 acts watering the ears of passers by means you're better off leaving it to the hand of fate – you won't be disappointed either way.
One of the truly astounding elements of the festival is the vast majority of shows are free as the country air, remarkable in a day and age where pay-to-enter festivals are shutting their gates for good. You grasp a sense that, for the musicians, playing for the love of their craft, having a good time with friends, and a crisp, post-show beer are payment enough.
After making the journey and putting down stakes in your accommodation, it's time to set off into town and see what it's all about. Vibes slowly grow as you near the town centre, the sound of whip cracking fills the air and buskers start to come into view, belting classics like 'Simply The Best'.
By following the sound of rowdiness and the scent of beer, it leads you to a pub in the centre of town. Suddenly, the full force of bellowing voices and rocking music hits you like a runaway bull. Drinks are served in plastic cups, a signal that if you haven't saddled up by now, you best do it quick.
The Bolton Crook Band take the Post Office Hotel by the horns, their guitarist shredding through a solo with a Cruiser bottle. It's loud, packed and sweaty, as 'Country Road' makes its first appearance. There's no time to linger with so much music to see, so it's off to The Tudor, where Rough Stock are bringing the honky tonk, as the scent of food wafts through the bar. Most pubs are packed thick, so snags and equally greasy grub are fried up in tents at the front of establishments.
The festival spreads across close to 60 venues in town, each with a solid musical roster beginning around 9am and flowing into the wee hours. It's overwhelming and thrilling, and the drinks are cold. Aside from the venues, the festival hosts a Toyota Fan Zone Stage smack bang in the centre of town, where talent from the buskers up to international acts are showcased throughout the day.
Currently, the Americana Showcase features an all-star band of Duncan Phillips, Stefanie Duzel, Misty Harlowe, Copperline and Brooke Taylor, and they know how to get the crowd moving. Brooke Taylor sings her original 'F... This Sh.t', omitting words to maintain family-friendly decorum. She belts through with a sublime balance of passion and control, truly impressive.
Each night, the festival's mainstage, set up in Tamworth's vast parkland, takes on a theme. The bulk of the crowd head over, with tonight touted as 'Girls Night Out'. Hosted by Catherine Britt, the show features some of the best hootin', tootin' and heartbreak songs of the fest. Melanie Dyer dedicates a song to all your crappy exes, and you feel seen. She starts the crowd clapping along, and it feels mighty warm in your chest.
Back at The Tudor, the rooftop features a hidden gem of a bar, karaoke spilling out as the sun sets on a perfect country day. Patrons tackle classics like 'Wagon Wheel' and 'Simply The Best' makes a second appearance, as the crowd cheer them on into the late hours. As stockhand and city slicker alike file back to their tents and caravans, you feel this country life might not be so bad.
The next day invites you out with the sun peeking mischievously through clouds. You head into town for a pie and a local coffee that slowly brings you back to life, as the early-bird buskers welcome you into the day, your toe just starting to tap.
A short drive takes you to The Oxley Lookout, providing a spectacular view of the town looking fresh as a daisy. The sun warms your back as the caffeine kicks in, and you're ready to whip crack into your day.
At the beautiful Capitol Theatre, a wondrous amalgamation of incredible female storytellers start the morning on a beautiful note. Amy Vee, Belinda Day, Brookie Gillett, Goldheist, Jane A Naoi, Katy Wren and Mel Fraser share tales both humorous and emotive about servo cheese and singing bad harmonies, proving how imperfect moments actually create fond memories.
'She', Goldheist's composition about anxiety, hits hard in the dimly lit atmosphere flanked by candles. The collection of stories and sounds will last long in the memory bank and serves as one of the festival's highlights.
You have to adjust to the brightness outside, where the sun bakes the well paced pavement. At Tamworth Services Club, Uncle Bob's Jug Band sound like they've been fished straight from an Alabaman swamp onto the stage. The floor is so packed all the way around the bar, you have to settle for just hearing them.
They play a variety of instruments: tea chest bass, kazoo and, of course, a jug, while the vocals are shared around. One vocalist shines with a Bon Scott-esque rasp that has you feeling right at home in the Southern vibe.
At the Tamworth Hotel, Capitol Vintage Guitars have set up some of the finest axes to peruse and sell. The 1960 Gibson shines, while a beautiful Stratocaster of a similar era brings a tear to the eye. Regrettably, it is not for sale.
Simon and Ian are incredibly helpful and open to customers strumming a tune on any of the guitars. The weight of years of play and echoes of the past can be felt as your fingers cross the strings. Canberra is lucky to have these guys year-round.
The gorgeous beer garden sports more brilliant acts, Patrick Wilson's guitarist wearing a turquoise electric with hot pink scratch plate and headstock that catches the eye. Wilson is smooth and pleasant, and the perfect Sunday afternoon vibe is achieved.
A stop to challenge some local scallywags to a game of pool is a nice addition to the experience, before Luke O'Shea takes to the stage at the Services Club. O'Shea recounts wide ranging life experiences, including a childhood teacher who "ripped bongs in the break, because it was the '70s. . . Maybe," he pauses. "I'm just hypothesising," he corrects with a wry smile.
'The Drover's Wife' is a perfect Australian country folk song, before 'Wayne And Wanita' follows, a masterfully entertaining and expertly written tune about a smitten lollipop man. O'Shea is a wondrous raconteur and a must see.
O'Shea opens the floor in the break to allow others to sing their stories. Alison Forbes performs 'Bone Digger' with a sultry voice that intrigues, before Lozz Benson emerges from behind the drums, picking up an autoharp to play 'Kickin' The Dirt'. Benson definitely has star appeal, with a voice intimate and intriguing and a demeanour beguiling, your eyes are transfixed.
Guitarist Phil Doublet can in fact play, and exceptionally well. He performs part of his Golden Guitar-nominated instrumental 'Kill Devil Road' with enough frenetic honky tonk energy to make Brad Paisley emotional. It has to be seen to be believed.
Back at The Tamworth Hotel, The Cartridge Family bring humour and a big band feel, sparking a sing along with "if you don't like my peaches, don't shake my tree!" At the mainstage, the final of Toyota Starmakers takes centre stage. Kaitlyn Thomas belts out strong and emotional, before Finnian Johnson sports a strong country twang for his smooth tune. The weather surprisingly takes a turn for the frosty, and daytime clothes don't suffice, so it's off in search of some place warm.
The fan stage features Arrernte man Scott Rathman 'JNR', whose voice is tender and true. Hidden whiskey gem The Press Club features Brooke Taylor, while The Tamworth Hotel features more honky tonk via Ben Mastwyk & His Millions, as the night tips its hat.
Your third day you pull up a little less dusty, but coffee is still imperative. Vocals float through the shopping centre reminding you of the beauty of having music everywhere. Monday morning is a great time to drift along main street and spend some time with the buskers.
Sophie Toyne is exceptionally good, while youngster Jack Gregory's skills stun. Gabi Forman's mandolin shines beside her vocals, as some amazing oil paintings come into view under the banner Outback Australian Art. Don Lewis utilises scrapers and plants among other tools to craft spectacular visions of the Australian outback, their pink skies blazing.
Caitlin Drew is a standout among the buskers, her voice smooth as honey, while her song is beautiful and emotional. Tom Mac has the tracks pumping, drawing in the crowd with his energy. Nicole Matthews has the engaging story and voice of a life well lived, while Belle Norman features on the other end of the spectrum. At just ten years old, she has a bright future ahead.
Abigail Wighton is soulful and angelic, a poignant moment of peace in the cacophony, before Argentinian Sofi Hardoy is soulful and deep. She invites passersby to join for tracks like 'Valerie', showcasing busking excellence. Jeanette Young is interactive and entertaining, while across the way, Trisha Carson masterfully recites bush poetry classic 'The Man From Snowy River', and the full range of art forms are on display.
Diamonds and Rust, aka Lucy and Sharon, are dressed to the nines in tasseled hats, and the best part is their mini-me's - two small skeletons dressed in flannelette shirts and cowgirl hats that strum their banjos and turn their heads to look at you as you pass. It's a real treat.
Fletcher Morley's inflections touch your soul, before One Job are an amazing three-piece that will undoubtedly make the finals of the People's Choice. Personal standout Coral Renee shines right out of her pink cowgirl boots with a truly unique voice that is sure to take her across the globe. Country fans should take serious note of this girl.
At the fanstage, Starmaker winner Felicity Kircher is sultry and fun, dancing around while showcasing her immaculate guitar skills. It is easy to see how this phenomenon took out the award, her voice lying somewhere between Alicia Keys and Joss Stone. Riley Zischke plays sweet and strong, before Tasmanian Zac Weeks' voice sticks in the memory as delicious and smooth, while Braydin Good rounds out the section of talented country men with instant classic 'This Town'.
Aside from the music, there are the Country Music and Golden Guitar museums, among myriad other attractions and events in town. As you regrettably pack your bags to hit the road, you wish you could stay longer, perhaps even forever. You feel as though you barely scratched the surface of what is on offer.
The energy, vibes and sheer quantity and quality of the Tamworth Country Music Festival make it an all-time classic that must be experienced in your lifetime, or once a year in that sweet January spot. As Tamworth becomes a dot in the rearview mirror, 'Country Road' plays on the radio just one more time.
